**** This article is a collaboration between IHP and Sthāpatya Samvad.****
Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation’s (BMC) new policy to combat air pollution is about to change the centuries-old traditional cooking style of Mumbai’s Irani bakeries as it urges all bakeries to stop using firewood and move to alternative fuel.
Despite the long-listed unfriendly rules and only cash accepted as payment of Irani bakeries, one must fight to preserve Irani bakeries of Mumbai, as they are not just eateries but the very crucial link that connects the present to the past and are deeply integrated part of Mumbai’s cultural heritage.
Mumbai’s Iranian bakeries are an integral part of the city’s identity, some of which have been operating for over a century now. As a cosmopolitan and dream city, Mumbai owes a significant part of its cultural and culinary heritage to the Parsi community. For the persecuted community from the homeland of Iran, Mumbai offered not just a place to live but an opportunity to grow. the community’s entrepreneurial spirit has allowed them to thrive as an essential part of Mumbai’s cultural landscape and culinary culture is no exception. From the expensive hotels like the Taj to the highly affordable Irani cafés like Yazdani, Kyani & co, among others, the Parsi communities have left their mark on the city’s cuisine, offering a wide variety of foods, from Bun Maska and Irani Chai to Berri Pulav, and Dhansak rice.
Most of these bakeries-restaurants will have more or less similar interiors — high ceilings supported by ornate wooden structures, checkered flooring, vintage wooden chairs and tables, menus written in chalk on boards, a long list of what-not-to-do, a big vintage clock hanging on the wall along with old photos of the bakery and the city, and one or two religious symbols associated with Zoroastrianism.
About 50 years ago there were at least 300 such bakeries and restaurants in Mumbai, today only 50 of them have survived. While traditional Irani bakeries continue to serve their signature bun maska, mawa cakes, and Irani chai, the new generation has expanded beyond heritage cafés, building successful brands like Theobroma.
Irani cafes are indeed renowned for their freshly baked breads and pastries. Some of the baking techniques in these bakeries trace their origins back several centuries deeply rooted in Persian culinary traditions. Perzon Zend, soon-to-be co-owner and the third-generation custodian of Yazdani bakery, said, “Zoroastrians, they worship fire, and their bakery, which uses fire, is akin to a place of worship for them.” The use of woodfire ovens not only imparts a unique flavour but also reflects the authenticity and warmth of these establishments.
However, the era of using woodfire ovens in these bakeries is in its last leg. In a move to curb pollution, the BMC has announced plans to audit all Mumbai bakeries using wood as fuel. The civic authority aims to eliminate wood-fuelled ovens, advocating for the switch to electric or piped natural gas (PNG) ovens. It has already sent notices to 650 bakeries across the city directing them to switch from firewood to alternate fuel sources.
Research by the Bombay Environmental Action Group (BEAG) indicates that 47.10% of Mumbai’s bakeries depend on wood for fuel. Large-scale bakeries burn between 250 and 300 kg of wood daily, whereas smaller ones consume about 130 kg on average. Baking 20 kg of dough requires 4–5 kg of wood, with scrap wood priced at ₹4–5 per kg, in contrast to ₹10–12 per kg for logwood.
According to the BMC, bakery kilns are one of the major contributors to increased air pollution in the city. Many bakeries use scrap wood from old furniture as fuel, due to its affordability. When the scrap wood is burned harmful gases like methane, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and other volatile organic compounds are released into the atmosphere.
However, a major challenge faced by bakeries is the time limit set by the civic body to switch to using alternate fuels. According to the notice, bakeries will have one month to upgrade their ovens or will be at risk of facing closure. Zend Merwan Zend, co-owner of Yazdani bakery told the Indian Express, “If the notice is implemented, all wood-fired bakeries will be forced to shut down. A one-month timeframe is far too short for such a significant transition, and most bakeries won’t be able to afford the new ovens, especially without government subsidies akin to those provided for solar panels.”
He added, “Across the world, people are preserving these bakeries and celebrating them as artisans, but we aren’t. We’re going back to wood-fired pizzas while killing our own heritage bakeries.”
Need for a targeted approach
While the use of alternate fuels and electric ovens is a commendable step towards reducing emissions, a more targeted approach could yield better results without compromising the rich culinary heritage and daily operations of the bakeries.
One of the primary sources of air pollution from bakeries is the burning of furniture scrap. The civic authorities can impose a strict ban on this practice and encourage bakeries to use biomass wood pellets or other eco-friendly firewood sources.
Smaller bakeries may struggle to adapt swiftly to new regulations. Extending the time limit for adopting new baking methods will provide these businesses with the necessary time to transition without risking closure. Additionally, the government should consider offering subsidies to Irani bakeries, recognizing their rich heritage value, to help them adopt environmentally friendly practices.
A balanced strategy will help preserve the unique culinary practices integral to Mumbai’s cultural identity while meeting the city’s air quality objectives. The transition to alternative fuels for Irani cafes, moving away from traditional firewood ovens, marks a significant change in their age-old cooking practices. Thus, collaborative efforts between the BMC, local communities, and bakery owners are essential to achieving a solution that benefits both public health and the preservation of culinary heritage.